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The road crosses the Dunes, which are highest at Hoogen-Blekker feet. Vestiges of trenches, wire entanglements, shelters and gun emplacements are to be seen on every hand. In the Dunes, on the right, is an emplacement for naval guns Photo opposite. The tourist may go as far as Coxyde-Bains 2 kms. Furnes Veurne is a small town of about 6, inhabitants. Of ancient origin, it was the chief town of the "Veurne Ambacht" castellany, in the Middle-Ages.
By the Treaty of , the Dutch were empowered to place a garrison there, as a barrier against France. More fortunate than Dixmude and Nieuport, practically all its public buildings and monuments escaped uninjured, although parts of the town were seriously damaged by the bombardments. Tourists arrive by Rue du Nord which opens out into the Grand' Place , the ancient ornamental paving of which is very fine.
Around the square are grouped the principal buildings. Renaissance in style, it was erected in , from the plans of Lieven Lukas.
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The high belfry dates from On the ground-floor see: the Council Chamber, with Spanish leather hangings: the College Chamber, with Utrecht velvet hangings; the Marriage Hall, with a [Pg 39] still-life painting attributed to Snyders on the mantelpiece.
The Great Hall on the first floor, with Spanish leather hangings, contains several royal portraits. Spanish Officers' Pavilion. Rue de l'Est. Meat Market. St-Nicolas' Tower. Near by is the Palais-de-Justice , formerly the ancient castellany, built in from the plans of Sylvain Boulin.
Behind the Palais-de-Justice is the Belfry. The interior, restored in , comprises several finely decorated rooms: the Waiting-Hall, the Justice Chamber 17th century , and the old Inquisition Chamber on the first floor. The Chapel contains some fine vaulting and a carved wooden gallery. A number of bronze tablets recording judgments are kept there. Of very ancient origin, its reconstruction was begun in the 14th century. The choir was completed in the 15th century. The nave is 14th century. The church contains magnificent stalls early 17th century , wood-work, doors, and pulpit, also a Descent from the Cross attributed to Pourbus.
In the sacristy there is a 15th century shrine. The stalls, organ and altars were removed to a place of safety during the war. Much of the stained-glass was destroyed. At the corner of the Grand' Place and the Rue de l'Est stands the Pavilion of the Spanish Officers , built by the Spaniards in the 16th century as a barracks. At the end of the square, facing the Rue du Nord, is the Old Spanish Guard House , an arcaded building of early 17th century construction. Nicolas' Church. Begun in the 14th century, building was continued in the 15th, and completed in the 16th centuries.
The church, [Pg 41] which has a high, unfinished tower suffered little during the war, although some of the stained-glass was broken.
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In the foreground: Rue de l'Est , by which tourists leave Furnes. Victor Hugo lived in one of them in August The "Pomme d'Or" was used as a residence by the Spanish Officers 16thth centuries.
Rebuilt in the 16th century, the "Noble Rose" was restored shortly before the War; it is now partly destroyed. Leave Furnes by the Rue de l'Est, and immediately after crossing the canal, take the Nieuport road, on the left. At Wulpen 5 kms. Numerous shelters, trenches, and wire entanglements are to be seen along the road.
After crossing the railway l. Like Coxyde, Oost-Dunkirk comprises the town proper—situated behind the dunes, on a road which, via Coxyde, linked up Furnes with Nieuport—and the baths, 2 kms. Both places served as billeting quarters for the French Marines in The immense camps of wooden huts were occupied later by the Zouaves. The town was practically destroyed by the bombardments; most of the houses are in ruins, but the church is still standing.
To visit the Baths 2 kms.
Maps and Plans
Coming back from the dike, take the first road on the left to Nieuport-Bains 4 kms. The road crosses a region covered with defence-works, trenches and wire entanglements, alternating with shelters and battery positions. The battle zone began there. All vestiges of life and vegetation have disappeared. Before reaching Nieuport-Bains , a Franco-British cemetery [Pg 43] photo below is seen on the left, and a little further on , the ruins of the church, with a cemetery in front.
Nieuport-Bains , a small watering-place situated 3 kms. There the dunes rise in places to a height of feet.
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As witness the trenches and boyaux which run through the ruins of its pretty villas and fine hotels, Nieuport-Bains stood in the front line. At the end of the dike the road turns to the right in the direction of Nieuport-Ville. From here the tourist crosses the dunes parallelly to the sea. Traversing the zone which formed the first line during the stabilisation period, the mouth of the Yser, protected by two wooden piers about three-quarters of a mile long and covered with sacks of earth, is reached.
The polders of Lombartzyde are somewhat to the south-west See p. Broken fragments of walls mark the site of the station on the dune. In front are a derelict engine and train, which have been there since Near by is the entrance to the covered trench which connected Nieuport-Ville with Nieuport-Bains; same may be visited. Proceed to Nieuport 3 kms. After crossing the bridge over a small canal, the tourist comes out on the wharves of Nieuport. Once an important fishing port, little remains today of its former prosperity. A few fishing boats still give some little activity to the place.
At the end of the dike, leave the car and go on foot, in the direction of arrow A, along the path leading to the mouth of the river photos, p. Return to the car and take the road to the left arrow B. Below: French Trench along the Beach, to the left of the river mouth. In the background: Nieuport Pier.
The small town of Nieuport is of very ancient origin. As early as the 9th century its site was occupied by a castle built by the Counts of Flanders to defend the coast against the Normans. The burgh, first known as Santhoven, took the name of Nieuport Neoportus after the inhabitants of Lombaertzyde had migrated there. Situated on the Yser, the town served as a port for Ypres, and was an important business centre.
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It was besieged by the English in and by the French in After a long period of stagnation, the enclosing walls were pulled down in However, with laudable respect for the past, the Municipality saw to it that the charming old-world aspect of the place was carefully preserved, by severely controlling the plans of all new constructions, and by prohibiting the use of materials not in harmony with the buildings already existent.
Nieuport, of which nothing remains but a few scattered ruins, was the scene of desperate fighting. With Dixmude, it was one of the two main centres in the Yser defences, these two towns being, in fact, the bastions of the line of resistance.
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Amongst other things, Nieuport possessed an elaborate system of lock-gates and sluices, by means of which the water in the canals throughout maritime Flanders was regulated. It was easier to defend than Dixmude. The canals and water-courses which united in its port, separated the town from the enemy. It could, moreover, be more effectively protected by the guns of the Allied Fleet. On October 19, it was attacked by the German 4th Reserve Division. Three consecutive attacks against Lombartzyde having failed, the enemy began to shell Nieuport with their heavy artillery.
Renewing their attacks, the enemy captured Lombartzyde, but were unable to debouch. Crushed by the bombardment, Nieuport fell into ruins. From October 18 to 25, in spite of the heavy bombardment, the Belgian 7th Infantry Regiment held the banks of the Yser, to the east, in front of St. Georges, near the Union Bridge, which the Germans, debouching from Mannekensvere, tried in vain to carry. The Belgian batteries, often without [Pg 46] cover, stubbornly supported the defenders. On several occasions, guns were hauled up on the river bank into the infantry lines, whence their direct hits smashed the farmhouses and German machine-guns concealed in them.
The enemy crossed the Yser at Schoorbakke, outflanking St. Georges from the south, which had to be evacuated. Instantly, batteries of the Belgian 5th Brigade, brought up by hand, opened a rapid fire at short range with high explosive shells upon St. Georges and the approaches to the canal, where the enemy were concentrating. Mowed down where they stood, the assailants vainly attempted to debouch from the village, where piles of their dead lay among the ruins.
At nightfall, the batteries were gradually withdrawn behind the railway whence they helped first to hold, then to force back the German attack upon Ramscappelle. The defenders being now exhausted, and the enemy's attack gathering strength, the Belgian General Staff gave orders to flood the area between the Yser and the railway embankment. The road to Calais, via Nieuport, was thus definitely barred to the invaders. The Germans revenged themselves by bombarding Nieuport, attempting at the same time to slip along the dunes of Lombartzyde, towards the town, in order to seize the locks.
Before the unflinching resistance of the defenders supported by the fire of the British and French monitors, the attack broke down. At the beginning of November Lombartzyde, in the northern sector, was the scene of uninterrupted fighting, with alternating advances and retreats. In December a powerful offensive, having for its objective the capture of the German defences along the Belgian sea-coast, was begun, with General de Mitry in command of the Nieuport forces.
On December 16, the French carried the western outskirts of Lombartzyde in a single rush, and reached the first houses of St. The enemy, however, resisted desperately, and progress was slow.